beitrag_senegal

Baobab, Bissap und sehr viel Kultur


Senegal – das westlichste Land des afrikanischen Kontinents
Ein Artikel von Nicola Seipp

Alles wirkt hier nagelneu. Kurz nach der Landung empfängt uns der erst Ende 2017 eröffnete internationale Flughafen in Dakar, alles ist übersichtlich, unkompliziert. Ebenso die anschließende Fahrt auf der nahezu leeren und ebenso nagelneuen, erst Wochen zuvor eröffneten Autobahn. So als ob sich noch niemand so richtig traut, sie zu befahren. Südlich von Dakar befindet sich die Petite Côte – dort führt uns unsere Fahrt durch die Dunkelheit hin.

Foto: Roman Ivaschenko - stock.adobe.com

Foto: Roman Ivaschenko – stock.adobe.com

In der Ferne lassen sich schemenhaft die Umrisse der charakteristischen Baobab-Bäume erkennen, dem legendären Nationalbaum Afrikas. Angekommen erwartet uns ein Glas mit knallrotem „Bissap“, ein aus Blättern der Roselle (Hibiskus) gewonnenes Getränk, das uns auf unserer Reise noch oft kühlen wird, richtig gut schmeckt – und sowas wie das Nationalgetränk des westlichen Afrikas ist.
Obwohl, zu heiß ist es während unseres Aufenthalts eigentlich nie, Temperaturen und Klima während der Trockenzeit (etwa Dezember bis Mai) sind optimal, besonders an der Küste erfrischt die Atlantik-luft. Und auch vom Jetlag bleiben Europäer verschont, denn nach etwa sechsstündigem Flug erwartet uns nur eine Stunde Zeitverschiebung.

Musik und Kunst, Jazzfestival und Biennale
Dennoch denken viele beim Senegal wohl nicht zuerst an ein Winterreiseziel, sondern eher an die berüchtigte Rallye Paris-Dakar oder an den ehemaligen Kulturminister Youssou N’Dour, der international Karriere als Musiker gemacht hat und mit „7 Seconds“ einen Welthit landete. Kunst und Musik spielen hier eine große Rolle. Seit 1993 findet jährlich das Saint-Louis Jazz Festival statt, das international als eines der wichtigsten Jazz-Events gilt. Und seit bald drei Jahrzehnten zieht die Dak‘Art – Biennale de l‘Art Africain Contemporain – Kunstinteressierte aus der ganzen Welt an. Gründe in den Senegal zu reisen gibt es viele, Kultur ist ein sehr großer, Natur, Nationalparks sowie die Strände an den touristisch gut erschlossenen Küsten ebenso.

Bitter wie der Tod, lieblich wie das Leben, süß wie die Liebe …
Wir entscheiden uns, außerhalb der Unterkunft zu essen. Eine gute Entscheidung, denn das Angebot in den Restaurants ist zwar überschaubar, aber sehr gut. Nationalgericht ist Tieboudienne, Fisch mit Reis, das direkt aus einer großen Pfanne heraus in großer Runde gegessen wird. Obst und Gemüse sind recht teuer, da vieles importiert werden muss. Auf unseren Tellern landet meist das würzige Poulet Yassa – Huhn, viele Zwiebeln, Zitronensaft und Reis
. Und wir trinken viel Tee. Die Zubereitung gleicht einem Ritual, das „Ataya“ genannt wird. Wir hatten das Glück, einige Male dabei sein zu können, privat bei Einheimischen. Üblich sind drei Aufgüsse. Ein senegalesisches Sprichwort sagt, dass die erste Tasse bitter wie der Tod sein soll, die zweite lieblich wie das Leben und die dritte süß wie die Liebe.

Bunte Pirogen, ein rosaroter See und die dunkle Historie der Île de Gorée
Das touristische Bild des Senegals wird durch vieles geprägt, von bunten Pirogen am Strand, mit denen die Fischer früh hinausfahren, in der Hoffnung auf einen guten Fang. Oder dem Lac Rose, aufgrund seiner einzigartigen rosaroten Färbung zum Weltnaturerbe erklärt. Um dieses Naturschauspiel genießen zu können, muss man Glück haben. Wir hatten es nicht, bei uns schimmerte der See lediglich ein wenig grau-rosa im fahlen Licht der Dämmerung, wir waren zu spät dran.
Der Besuch der ehemaligen Sklaveninsel Île de Gorée, von der aus Millionen von Sklaven verschifft wurden, ist bedrückend. Kaum vorstellbar die dunkle Geschichte auf der heute charmant-pittoresken Insel mit den pastellfarbenen Häusern und Künstlerkolonie. Im Sklavenhaus dokumentieren Fotos und Bilder die grausige Historie. Überhaupt sind es die vielen Bilder des Senegals, die nachhallen und im Kopf bleiben, Bilder von Schulen und Menschen, staubigen Straßen, Hütten eines Nomadenstammes. Der Senegal besteht aus unzähligen Bildern, die auf einer einzigen Reise kaum zu erfassen sind. Aber im kommenden Jahr 2020 findet ja wieder die Biennale Dakar statt. Sicher ein guter Grund für eine Senegal-Reise, nicht nur für Kunstliebhaber.

Fotos: Nicola Seipp
Teranga, Ubuntu und ganz viel Djembe

Dörte Stähler, Senegal-Insiderin und BuchautorinWir sprechen mit Buchautorin und Senegal-Insiderin Dörte Stähler, die seit 20 Jahren etwa zwei bis drei Mal im Jahr in den Senegal reist, bisher mehr als 50 Mal. Sie engagiert sich vor Ort für soziale und schulische Projekte, kennt die Umstände dort wie nicht viele andere. Dies vor allem aufgrund ihrer guten Kontakte zu Einheimischen und Persönlichkeiten aus Politik und Kultur. Über ihre persön-lichen Erfahrungen im Land berichtet sie in ihrem Buch „Der Schwindel“ (NIBE Verlag, 2018).

Was fasziniert Sie am Senegal?
Vor allem die Gastfreundlichkeit (Teranga), man ist trotz vieler existentieller Probleme immer fröhlich, dazu erklingt überall Musik (Djembe). So bleibt man im Takt, im Rhythmus, in der Balance. Beeindruckend ist auch die Kunst der mündlichen Erzählung. Diese wird von Griots betrieben, die wichtige soziale Ereignisse begleiten und das kollektive Gedächtnis der Gemeinschaft bewahren. Auch die afrikanische Diskretion, keiner redet schlecht über andere Menschen oder lacht über Missgeschicke. Mensch, Tier und Natur werden wertgeschätzt und gewürdigt. Und natürlich Ubuntu, das bedeutet, dass das ganze Universum miteinander verbunden ist. Verändert sich – egal wo – etwas, verändert sich gleichzeitig auch etwas für dich.

Dakar ist voll, laut, verkehrsreich … Was sollte man sich dennoch unbedingt in Ruhe ansehen?
Die Unabhängigkeitsstatue, das historische Museum, Théodore Manoud African Art Museum sowie das neue IFAN Museum mit seinen westafrikanischen Masken und Gegenständen des täglichen und rituellen Stammeslebens. Das Präsidentschaftsgebäude, den Bahnhof aus der Kolonialzeit, die Médina sowie den Sandaga-Markt.

An welchem Ort außerhalb Dakars halten Sie sich am liebsten auf?
Niakh-Niakhal, nördlich der Hafenstadt Mbour. Dort ist es nicht touristisch überlaufen, man kann am langen weißen Sandstrand entspannen.
Ebenso die Lompoul-Wüste, die der Sahara ähnelt und südlich der Kolonialstadt Saint-Louis liegt

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. Dazu die Nationalparks Djoudj im Norden Senegals, der das drittgrößte Vogelreservat der Welt ist, sowie der Nationalpark Delta du Saloum, mit 76.000 Hektar Größe an der Atlantikküste – beide Parks sind UNESCO-Welterbe. Fadiouth, die Muschelinsel mit einem Friedhof, der Muslime und Christen vereint, sowie der große Fischmarkt in Joal sind ebenfalls Orte, an denen ich sehr gerne bin.

Verraten Sie uns Ihre persönlichen Senegal-Highlights?
Keur Ngalgou ist ein typisches Dorf im Landesinneren in Richtung der heiligen Stadt Touba, wohin bis zu vier Millionen Muslime aus aller Welt an den Festtagen pilgern. Das ist eine sehr ärmliche Gegend, weil dort jegliche Infrastruktur fehlt. Bezüglich der Solidarität der Dorfgemeinschaft ist dies aber eine überaus reiche Gegend. Hass und Neid wären ein Todesurteil und gibt es dort nicht. Außer mir hat sich wohl noch kein Weißer dorthin verlaufen, obwohl man sich über jeden Besuch freut.


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